The Path Less Pedaled

Croatia Stage 1 – Sun 17th May 2015 – Dubrovnik (Croatia) to Neum (Bosnia) (68 Km)

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The bell on the town clock was tolling 6:30 am when I set out from Dubrovnik, so early that the music was still pumping at the Banji Beach night club near where I was staying. If only I had their youth and energy!  Sunday morning and everything else was closed except fortunately the bakery, so I was able to get a couple of baguettes for breakfast to sustain me for the 70 Km ride to Neum in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Being early on a Sunday morning there was no traffic to worry about leaving Dubrovnik. But then I rode a few Km on the main ED8 highway which was already starting to get busy, so I was glad when I turned off to head for the mountains but it turned out to be steeper than I had imagined. Oh for some of that youthful energy! A very hard day’s work but I was treated to some quaint little villages, stunning vistas, and traffic free riding for the whole day. I rode for hours without seeing another human or car. It was very hot today and I ran out of water and not a house in sight. Eventually I came to a house where nobody spoke English but made myself understood enough to get my water bottle filled up. The only living creature I saw on the road was a rather large brown snake which seemed very excited to see me!

Then I ran into a problem, in fact a big problem, at the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina because I had bypassed the main border control. I was told quite emphatically that I was not allowed to enter and would have to return the way I had come up the mountain again. After much pleading the official reluctantly waived me through (I think he just wanted to get rid of me). Now I understand what it feels like to be an illegal immigrant, waiting for a knock on the door to drag me away. Hopefully I won’t run into a problem tomorrow when I cross back into Croatia.

Eventually I arrived at Neum and found my way to Villa Maslina, which is simply delightful. I have spent a very pleasant afternoon sitting on the terrace talking to a lovely couple from Suffolk UK and the delightful young lady managing the Villa. Life doesn’t get any better than this!