Gravina in Puglia
Italy (Puglia) Stage 10 – Gioia Del Colle to Gravina In Puglia 62 Km (Sat 12 May 2018)
Weather: 15⁰C min – 22⁰C max, mostly sunny
“Life is like a pedal … they can push you down but you always come back up.” ~ Unknown
Mindful of the fact that I had a 60 Km ride to Gravina In Puglia, I ate breakfast early and was on the road by 9 am, once again under a clear blue sky.
Sebastian had assured me I would enjoy good riding conditions today, and he was absolutely correct. For the first half of the trip I sailed along on the unbelievably smooth, wide roads SP51 and SP22, both almost devoid of traffic.
Crops and green pastures, sprinkled with red poppies and those yellow wild flowers that are everywhere, dominated the landscape today. I even saw a herd of fresian cows heading towards a dairy to be milked (the first animals other than donkeys I have seen all tour).
Matera at the half way mark was to be the highlight of the day, because I had read so much about the troglodyte city. Apparently the peasants there first began to hew the city’s famous cave houses in medieval times or earlier. Now a Unesco World Heritage site, Matera was a troglodyte city of 20,000 until well after WWII; people and animals slept together and, despite an infant mortality rate of over 50%, a typical family cave sheltered an average of six children. Matera’s famous sassi buildings of tufa stone, half constructed, half bored into the rock walls were home to more than 50% of the populace until the local government forcefully relocated them into new residential areas in the late 1950s.
However, the best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry! When I reached Matera the traffic through town was very heavy and the hill down to the caves (and the climb up again) was steep. Besides I had noticed the gathering grey clouds in the direction of Gravina, so I made the decision to keep going. Good decision! I reached my destination at 2 pm, about 30 minutes before the thunderstorm arrived.
At first Gravina in Puglia appeared to be a tired old town that had seen better days, but when I discovered the centro storico (historic centre) I changed my mind. I soon warmed to the town once I became immersed in it’s history. Another of Puglia’s treasures!
I got my hopes up for some fresian photos, but they mustn’t have posed nicely for you 🙁 At least the tractor was featured. Keep up the great riding, photos & blogging!
Thanks Soph. Unfortunately the photo of the cows didn’t turn out very good, because I was too far away (didn’t want to frighten them).
The town photos says it all, very small town. Seems a very lonely rout by the look of the photos not a car or person in sight.. Not for me my dear!! but keep on riding life does not get any better than you riding on these lonely roads. Just keep safe.