Top of the Island

Channel Islands (Guernsey) Day 3 – Route 1 + Route 2 + Route 3 50 Km (Thu 9 August 2018)

Weather: 13⁰C min – 23⁰C max, morning rain, then sunny

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“There’s nothing like sitting back and talking to your cows” ~ Russell Crowe

Steady rain was falling when I awoke, so I delayed the start of my riding in the hope that the weather would improve.

First I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, chatting to Tara from Newcastle in Australia, who has been walking around Guernsey, and a young couple from the Netherlands, who have spent a couple of days cycling around. Our hostess Ann had made a delicious porridge full of fruit and topped with fresh cream produced by Guernsey cows from one of the seventeen remaining dairy farms on the island.

In no hurry to start riding, the morning was spent pleasantly strolling around Saint Peter Port, getting to know this lovely capital of Guernsey. By noon the rain has stopped and the sky, although still overcast, was looking a bit brighter, so it was time to hop on my bike.

For my first day of riding in Guernsey I strung together the following three loops taken from the Standard Guernsey Loops, creating a 50 Km route crisscrossing the north and central regions of Guernsey: R1 (Top of the Island),R2 (Coast and Country), and R3 (Talbot Valley Circular).

So, faithfully following the line on my Garmin, I headed off in a northerly direction on a nice off-road cycle path running alongside the sea. After about 4 Km I came to “The Bridge”, which is more like a dam wall than a bridge. What intrigues me is that originally Guernsey was split in two, the main Island of Guernsey being separated from a tidal island to the north called Le Clos du Valle, with the area in between being called “Braye du Valle”. In 1803 a wall (now referred to as ” The Bridge”) was built so that Guernsey became one island.

Not much further along I branched off onto a country lane, where a flock of startled geese took to the water in fright at the sight of an elderly Australian in lycra. Then I came to my first “hedge veg” fruit and vegetable stall based on the “honesty system”. I love the concept, but unfortunately some persons don’t understand the concept of honesty so the custom is in danger of dying out. I made sure I dropped my £2 in the money box before of I helped myself to a punnet of raspberries which, by the way, were the freshest and tastiest I have ever eaten.

From there my route meandered around through some delightful “Route Tranquille” laneways, where pedestrians, cyclists and horses have priority and motorists are limited to 15 mph. There is talk of the speed limit being reduced to 25 mph right across Guernsey, but this brilliant initiative is meeting with some resistance.

A highlight for me was the best of breed Guernsey cows in the lush Talbot Valley, as true to breed as you can get – no cross-breeding here. How it gladdens the heart of a dairy farmer’s son!

From peace and tranquility of the “Route Tranquille” laneways, to the rugged west coast, to the rich grazing land of the Talbot Valley, to the immaculate houses, to the flower-lined roadside, to the pure bred Guernsey cows … this day if riding had it all. I thought Jersey would take some topping, but it is matched by Guernsey.