Poor Person’s Riviera
Italy (Puglia) Stage 12 – Trani to Manfredonia 73 Km (Mon 14 May 2018)
Weather: 13⁰C min – 24⁰C max, mostly sunny
“Sorry I’m busy … I have to ride my bike!” ~ Unknown
When I awoke this morning everything pointed to a great day ahead. The first thing I did is look at the weather forecast on my laptop, delighted to see a smiley sun icon with a predicted 24 deg max and 0% possibility of rain. Next I checked my route for the day’s ride and noted that, although it is 73 Km, the terrain is flat as a pancake and the route runs alongside the Adriatic all the way to my destination of Manfredonia. Perfect!
But things don’t always turn out like the are supposed to. Grey clouds obscured the sun, the exit from town was through the less salubrious parts of Trani, and I was riding into a stiff headwind that persisted for most of the journey. Gone were the roadside wild flowers, replaced by piles of garbage and household rubbish. The scenery had little appeal and the traffic was heavy at times. The only three towns between Trania and Manfredonia (Barletta, Margherita Di Savoia and Zapponeta) were all uninspiring, with tacky beach bars that were nearly all closed down. Furthermore, the Adriatic was an unappealing grey-green colour and the beaches were more mud than sand.
While I was grinding my way into the headwind I was trying hard to think of some positives, but all I could be thankful for was that the terrain was flat and it wasn’t raining. However, all changed at the 65 Km mark when I turned right onto a delightful gum-tree lined avenue beside a canal that led all the way into the sparkling town of Manfredonia at the foot of the Parco Nazionale del Gargano. It was then that I noticed the clouds had gone and the wind was behind me for a change.
One thing that concerned me was the huge mountain behind the Manfredonia in the direction of Vieste where I am headed tomorrow. But that is tomorrow’s challenge! Right now I am going to explore Manfredonia centro, have a good meal, and hopefully sleep well in readiness for a huge ride tomorrow.
Thanks for all of your insights on the route you are taking and what you are finding on the road and in towns. I’ll be following some of your route in September. Unfortunately wont have the beautiful flowers.
You will enjoy the route Alan. Although it is mostly on secondary roads, the traffic has been lighter than expected (except for today) and I have never felt unsafe. Don’t attempt today’s route unless you are comfortable riding on busy roads.
A fine piece of writing today, Kev. I enjoyed it.
Love Nancy,
and be careful!
Thanks Nancy. Always careful 🙂
You certainly paint a picture, albeit a less pleasant one today. Thank goodness for the tractors and gum trees en route 🙂 Interesting juxtaposition of the Christian iconography and Marilyn Monroe print!
I thought the Marilyn Monroe thing was a classic. Trust you to notice!
A very hard and long ride but seeing the gum trees would remind you of “Spliters” Creek as your mum always say “the gum trees are too close”. As for Marilyn Monroe Kev that would have made your day!