Puglia’s Ionian Coast
Italy (Puglia) Stage 04 – Santa Maria Di Leuca to Gallipoli 51 Km (Sat 5 May 2018)
Weather: 15⁰C min – 22⁰C max, fine but mostly cloudy
“Cycling isn’t a hobby for me, it’s my inner peace.” ~ Unknown
When an Australian hears of Gallipoli they think of the peninsula in Turkey where on Sunday 25th April 1915 thousands of brave Australians charged to their death. There is also a Gallipoli in Italy where today there was just one foolhardy Australian charging alone, his trusty steed being a 12 year old, hand-made, steel-framed, Cannondale touring bike. And he arrived there still alive, in fact optimistic about making his 73rd birthday in August.
Yesterday when I arrived at the Villa Ines in Santa Maria di Leuca my wonderful host Mario, a fountain of knowledge about Italy, warned me that there might only be one cafe where I might be able to get a coffee on my way to Gallipoli. Once you round the heel of Italy’s boot at Leuca the coastline is washed by the Ionian Sea. Unlike the high cliffs overlooking the Adriatic, on the western side of the heel, the beaches are flat and therefore become the target of hordes of tourists in July and August. But at this time of the year most of the beach bars, cafes and restaurants are shut, and the coastal towns are deserted.
And so it turned out, but that does not mean it was an unpleasant ride. On the contrary, pleasure was derived from gliding along well-maintained Strade Provinciale roads, quietly, smoothly and effortlessly, steadily chewing up the kilometres. What’s more, I did find a cafe that was open at a little town by the sea about 10 Km from Leuca, just time for my morning caffeine fix!
A feature today was the number of immaculate seaside houses, some featuring humble (but colourful) geraniums or pretty scarlet mesembryanthemums dangling attractively over white-washed walls. To my disappointment it is too early in the season for the cacti and oleanders, so prominent in Italy, to be in full bloom.
Lunch at the beachside Sunset Bar was a highlight. Even a simple prosciuto, mozarello, tomato, and insalata sandwich tastes extra special in Puglia!
I was just thinking what a wonderful world it is when I came to an abrupt halt, faced with gates completely blocking the road and a sign saying “lavori in corso” (which Google Translate told me means “work in progress”). Despair was starting to set in when my map showed me I would have to take a long detour, with some riding on a major highway. Then I called to a couple of workmen inside the enclosure, pointing to my bicycle and shouting “bicicletta“. Amazingly they opened the gate and waved me through. I didn’t mind riding my bike for a couple of Km on the unmade road, walking when I came to the rockier or sandier sections!
Arriving at my destination an hour before check-in, I had time to do an exploratory spin around the Old Town, which is on an island over a bridge at the west end of Corso Roma. Gallipoli is everything it is cracked up to be! And I have already decided what I am going to eat tonight, after all Gallipoli is where most of Italy’s fish is caught!
Had to look up ‘mesembryanthemums’ – a much more seemly name than pig’s face! Glad you & your trusty steed were waved through the roadwork & able to make good time. Keep on riding! 🙂
I agree, the name “pigs face doesn’t seem appropriate for such a beautiful flower. “Mesembryanthemums” is much better.
The little village looks rather pretty. You are very lucky that you were able to go through the road thanks to the good work men, but an experience rider always find a way around any obstacle. KEEP ON RIDING AND BE SAFE.??