As Good as it Gets

Spain-Portugal Stage 7 – Wed 18th May 2016 – São Bartolomeu de Messines to Lagos (55 Km)

Weather: 14⁰C min – 26⁰C max, fine, clear blue sky

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” Bicycles are the indicator species of a community, like shellfish in a bay “ ~ P. Martin Scott

Blue skies, smooth roads (with 2m shoulder), spectacular scenery, more descents than climbs, Cannondale tourer gliding along effortlessly … what more could a bike tourer wish for!

I just knew it was going to be a brilliant day when I went downstairs to the café in fabulous Bartholomeu Guesthouse where I was staying and enjoyed one of the best breakfasts I have had on tour so far … special not just because of the jug of freshly squeezed orange juice or the decent latte or the two freshly baked Portuguese tarts, but because I was sitting next to my two new found English mates who I met last night. They have left their wives home in England while they hike around the Algarve trails, only today the older gentleman (only 66 bless him) was going to stay in the comfort of the guesthouse because the 26⁰C forecast was too hot for him!

Chatting for too long, it was after 9 am by the time I finished packing my panier bags, retrieved my bike from the locked storeroom across the street, set the correct route on my Garmin navigator and headed off along the cobbled street in the direction of Lagos about 55 Km south.

Last night I made the decision that I had ridden/walked on enough dirt tracks so I re-designed alternative routes along secondary and tertiary roads, which are not too busy at this time of year. Besides, most of the roads have a generous wide shoulder and in any event I have developed trust in Portuguese motorists to give me at least two metres clearance.

This was a ride to remember with some great views all along the way. As well as the usual olive trees, vineyards, and orange orchards there was even a hedge of lemon trees. Because my starting point of São Bartolomeu de Messines has an altitude of almost 200 m and my destination of Lagos is on the coast, the ride was downhill, or at least flat, most of the way so there was plenty of opportunity to soak up the fresh air.

In no time at all I had ridden 15 Km and came to the wonderfully picturesque town of Silves. Once the Moorish capital, Silves is steeped with history. It is an enchanting town on the banks of the Rio Arade and home to the best preserved castle in the Algarve. Here I enjoyed a coffee while staring at the turreted fortress perched atop the hill and imagining how it would have offered protection for the township in days gone by. No wonder there was a steady stream of tourists walking up the cobbled street towards the castle and the adjacent church.

Arriving at Lagos just after 2 pm, I checked into a great little place called Hotel Mar Azul right in the town’s centro. At €31.5 it is a steal – I can’t believe how cheap everything is in Portugal.

Lagos is a large, modern, bustling town full of wonderful bars and cafes and a lively street life. For an hour or two I whiled away the time by strolling through the many delightful little streets and listening to a couple of talented buskers playing acoustic guitars. Along with Tavira make sure you put Lagos on your list of “not to be missed” towns to stay when you visit Portugal.

There are so many restaurants to choose from in Lagos, but I have chosen the one with a dog salivating at the door ~ Restaurante a Forja. Dogs have a good nose for food, besides the lady at Hotel MarAzul where I am staying recommended it because it serves good traditional Portuguese food and it is away from the main street. I will let you know later if the dog was right.