Change of Plan

South Korea Stage 4 – Thu 5th Nov 2015 – Chungju Loop (40 Km)

Train – Chungju to Jecheon
Train – Jecheon to Andong

Weather: 6⁰C min – 19⁰C max, light cloud

Route PhotosTrip MapsTown Photos
 

” The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft agley” ~ Robert Burns

I woke up early this morning on good terms with the world. Unlike the previous two days there was no fog and I was looking forward to the challenge presented by the Saejae Bicycle Route. The plan was to ride 80 Km from Changju to Mungyeong, crossing over the infamously rough Ihwaryeong Pass of the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range. The Saejae Bicycle Route requires great physical strength and endurance with a maximum elevation of about 540 m at the 43 Km point.

How pleasant it was breezing along through the beautiful countryside through charming rural villages and past delightful little rustic houses. Like yesterday there were lots of cabbage patches, chillies and apple orchards. I thought it strange that there was always loud music playing or bells ringing whenever I went past an orchard, then I realised that this must be a bird deterrent. The apples were the biggest I have ever seen, so tempting that I nicked one off the tree and kept it as a reward for when I reached the peak of the mountain range.

Adam and Eve were punished for a similar crime. My punishment was soon to come! Not long after my gears started playing up and I noticed that the derailleur cable was frayed. Rather than risk the cable snapping altogether or getting stuck in one gear over that huge mountain, I made the decision to abort the day’s ride and return the 20 Km to Chungju. By the time I found a bike shop and had a new cable fitted it was too late to set off again so I headed for the train station. The girl in the ticket office could speak very little English but was able to tell me there was no train to Mungyeong but there was one to Andong where I have booked a homestay tomorrow night. Then when I said I have a bike she was adamant that the train does not take bikes. She then called her colleague from the office who spoke better English and was able to sort out the problem, getting me on a train to Jecheon for a change to another train to Andong that would arrive about 4:30 pm. Strictly speaking the train to Jecheon does not take bikes, but she booked me in Seat 1 of Carriage 1 and said if I sat there and took the front wheel off the bike the conductor would probably allow (which he fortunately did).

It is funny how things often turn out for the best when you are on a touring adventure … fortune favours the brave. I did not have any firm accommodation booking in Mungyeong and I don’t think I am missing much by by-passing the town anyway. Instead I get to stay two nights in the interesting $50 per night House of Chiam in Andong (when I rang them they confirmed they have a room available for tonight) and will be able to spend a rest day in beautiful Andong before resuming my planned route to Busan.

So here I am right now sitting in a train writing this journal as I pass through a tunnel under that great big mountain range that I was supposed to be riding over. Oh, and that apple tastes absolutely delicious; I wonder if Eve’s apple tasted as good.

I have now checked into the House of Chiam in Andong and for the next two days will be living a simple life in a traditional hut about the size of a prison cell (about 3m x 3m) with a door about 1.5m high. I have gashed my head once already! The only furniture in the room is a TV and a tiny chest of drawers, quite a contrast from the Grand last night with its wizz-bang toilet and remote controlled lights! But at least there is wi-fi so what more could I want.

The fabulous town of Andong is only about 2 Km down the hill, so I am looking forward to exploring it over the next couple of days. Now I am going to put one of the doonas on the floor to soften it a bit so I can get some sleep tonight. My poor old bones!