Route Des Vins D’Alsace

Alsace (France) Stage 5 – Fri 9th Sept 2016 – Obernai to Sélestat (44 Km)

Weather: 16⁰C min – 28⁰C max, fine, clear blue sky

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“I’m reading a book about anti-gravity. I can’t put it down.” ~ Unknown

Just as well today’s ride was not a time trial, because I would have come a clear last. Taking 5 hours to do the 44 Km from Obernai to Sélestat is an indicator of the number of photographic distractions that came my way, with frequent stops and meandering around.

But first the day had to start with breakfast in the dining room of the old Zum Schnogaloch hotel where I was staying. Yesterday I suggested that its 2-star rating was flattering, but I started to warm to Zum as I gazed around at the interesting décor in the dining room: roughly hewn, dark-brown, exposed beams on the ceiling and walls; and rustic artifacts adorning the walls (including an ancient wooden scythe, wagon wheel, wooden rake, well-beaten old copper pans and a bundle of straw). Wi-Fi in my room even kicked in for a while this morning, enabling me to have a pixelated Skype conversation with a friend in Sydney, before the connection gave up altogether.

p1100900Bidding au revoir to the friendly staff and retrieving my bike from the safety of a locked garage it was nine o’clock when I headed down the road, excited by the prospect of my first day of riding on the Route Des Vins D’Alsace (Alsace Wine Route). What a ride it turned out to be, with stunning scenery and asphalt surface (virtually traffic-free) all the way … often hard to work out whether it was a wide bike path or a narrow country road. Orderly rows of lush green grape vines braided the undulating slopes for the entire 44 Km to Sélestat. Some of the plump green grapes had a yellow, translucent tinge, suggesting that they might be ripe enough to eat, but when I tasted one it was still a little sour.

p1100930Somehow there is always a feeling of tranquility riding through vineyards. But what makes the Route Des Vins D’Alsace so special is the string of delightful villages: Bernardswiller, Goxwiller, Barr, Mittelbergheim, Andlau, Itterswiller, Nothalten, Blienschwiller, Dambach-la-Ville, Dieffenthal, Scherwiller, Châtenois, and Kintzheim. I would hate to be the judge for the prettiest town competition, but if I was then Barr and Itterswiller would have to be prime candidates for the award.

One particular patisserie in Mittelbergheim was so appealing that I just had to stop for a custard flan and an escargot au raisin, which I was just about to start eating when a little boy passed by and wished me bon appetite! There were several interesting shops specialising in pain d’épices (French for “spice bread”, sometimes incorrectly translated as gingerbread). Even though Alsace is one of the premier wine districts in France, I resisted the temptation to enter any of the caves du vin (wine cellars).

Ancient Sélestat where I am staying tonight has its own character, not as ostentatious or touristy as the other towns I passed through today, but nevertheless charming. My room is on the third floor overlooking a lovely square where there is currently a fabulous jazz band playing to an enthusiastic crowd of diners and winers. I feel I should go down and join them now.

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3 Responses

  1. Melveta Ellwood says:

    What lovely photos. Those grapes and cakes looks mouth watering.
    As you said the place looks awesome ! Ride on but be safe.

  2. Melveta Ellwood says:

    No temptation! You must be very strong not to have a taste. Looking at the grapes anyway you would have already drunk your wine!!

  3. Chilli Tank says:

    As it is heaven

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